In the Cupboard

Cassia, allspice, clove, sarsaparilla – the ingredients of a bitters tend to read like the shelves of an apothecary and, in some cases, the taste isn’t unlike juggling several jars of herbs and spices on your tongue at once. Bob’s Bitters, a line of cocktail mixers from the United Kingdom, are a refreshingly simple breath of fresh air in the world of drink. Not long ago I asked Bob about his Liquorice Bitters, one particularly extraordinary bitters from his full line of ten bitters, whose flavors he chose from the botanicals commonly used in the distillation of gin.

The Making of Bob’s Liquorice Bitters

Bob told me a bit about the genesis of this bitters:

“The Liquorice Bitters have become a popular ingredient for the British bartender.  Originally, a bartender I have worked with in the past asked me if there was anything on the market using liquorice and, as I was not aware of any such product, I decided to try to create my own.  It is an excellent mixer with rum, whisky, gin, and Galliano (as this contains liquorice).”

And how is this bitters made? Seemingly quite easily, from what Bob says. He essentially just steeps licorice root in neutral grain alcohol. However, a trained hand, trial and error, and strategic timing must come into play with this “bespoke” bitters:

“The main challenge was to capture the natural bittersweetness of the root.  Toward the end of the maceration period when the bitter element was introduced, the main challenge was to ensure that it did not become too bitter. This would detract from the natural liquorice flavor.”

Liquorice? Really?

I personally don’t care much for the flavor of licorice–that cloying bitterness shared with anise and fennel–but was pleasantly surprised by the subtle part the root played in this simultaneously sweet and woody mixture.  Bob explains further:

“Contrary to popular belief, the anise and liquorice plants are actually not related and their flavors differ.  Anethole is the compound found in both plants and this is very aromatic, hence the similar scent from the two.  Liquorice is naturally sweet; in fact it is sweeter than sugar.  Often when candies are made using liquorice, aniseed oil is added to enhance the flavor; however, in its natural form liquorice has a milder flavor.”

The singularity of Bob’s Bitters goes beyond the flavors themselves. The packaging, particularly the uniquely shaped dropper, is something all its own.

“As you are aware, the range of Bob’s Bitters are very concentrated; therefore it was essential that measurements could be precise when adding to cocktails.  With regards to the pipette and bottle, these give the impression of a tonic from the Victorian era. The kiwi on the label partly came from the vision of the shape of the pipette as well as the fact that the New Zealand kiwi has a very acute sense of smell, which in turn relates to the aromatic scent of each of the Bob’s Bitters flavor range.”

Liquorice Bitters in Context

Liquorice is probably not a flavor most American bartenders are accustomed to using. Bob recommends using it just as you would use Angostura bitters in an Old Fashioned. For the aspiring mixologist, Bob sent me a recipe developed by Ago Perrone, bartender for London’s luxury hotel The Connaught:

Martini L’Autentico

⅓ oz Galliano l’Autentico
½ oz Tio Pepe (dry sherry)
1 shot Bols Genever
½ tsp Liquorice Bitters

Stir over ice then strain. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Bob hasn’t played around with using his Liquorice Bitters in food yet, but he theorizes it could make for a nice vinaigrette–a notion I’ve since successfully put to the test. Home-made cinnamon buns brushed with a glaze containing several droppers-full is also nice.

Bob’s Liquorice Bitters and his other artisan bitters,  can be found online at The Meadow and are open to taste in both of our shops. Check out Bob’s Abbotts Bitters, Bob’s Cardamom Bitters, Bob’s Chocolate Bitters, Bob’s Coriander Bitters, Bob’s Ginger Bitters, Bob’s Grapefruit Bitters, Bob’s Lavender Bitters, Bob’s Orange & Mandarin Bitters, Bob’s Peppermint Bitters, and Bob’s Vanilla Bitters.

markbitterman :: Nov.29.2011 :: Drink, Recipes :: No Comments »

New varieties of bitters are coming on the market every day. Nowhere are both the growth and diversity of the bitters world more evident than with Orange Bitters. We decided to sit down around the benches outside The Meadow with a gaggle of employees and cocktail aficionados to get to the bottom of this delicious subject.

Orange bitters are the most versatile and popular flavor of bitters. The orange plays beautifully off the herbaceous botanicals of gin, lifts up the treacle-spiciness of rum, and ensnares the fiery caramel flavors of good bourbon. More importantly, in today’s ever-expanding landscape of cocktails, orange bitters sharpen the flavors of ingredients that might otherwise might be uncooperative or ungainly. In other words, orange bitters not only adds complexity to an already good cocktail, a dash here and there can also fix one that, try as you might, just doesn’t add up.

All that being said, not all orange bitters are created equal. Some are one-note, some are intriguingly multifaceted, some are bitter, some are less so, or not at all. It starts with a bitters maker’s choice of base alcohol. Though a neutral grain alcohol like Everclear is probably most common, one may opt for rum, whiskey, gin, etc. Some may eschew alcohol altogether in favor of glycerin–a choice some believe ultimately disqualifies the resulting product as a bitters. The bittering agents too can vary. Gentian root extract is the most prevalent, but others include quassia, calamus, and angelica root–or any combination of one or more of them.

Then there are the rest of the flavoring agents.

In orange bitters as with any bitters, fragrant roots, herbs, spices, barks, fruits, or even meats–forsooth, bacon-flavored bitters do exist. It might be a simple, single-note recipe, or a wild compendium of diverse flavors. Different brands of orange bitters derive characteristic flavors not just from the different varietals of orange and citrus, but also the different parts of the fruit: blossom, peel, pith, flesh, juice, etc.

Maceration, where the ingredients are steeped in alcohol, will also vary from producer to producer. Because orange peel might need to steep for longer than gentian, a producer might opt to macerate each ingredient separately, and then combine the results in controlled proportions. Most prefer to do everything in a single batch, allowing all the ingredients to marry more harmoniously, though perhaps adding some of the more fragile ingredients later in the process.

All the permutations of ingredients and different approaches to maceration allow for nearly endless possible outcomes of sweet, bitter, spicy, pungent, and sour.

At The Meadow our selection of bitters is constantly growing—and these days, growing rapidly. The social circles of mixologists and cocktail professionals are not in want of creative minds, most of which have developed their own take on the classic orange bitters. With so many choices on our table of bitters, picking an orange one can seem more difficult than it ought to be. I decided to compare them all side by side not only to help out curious customers, but also to keep them straight in my own head.

Angostura Orange – Clear in color, this is one strong tincture. It’s like chewing on an orange peel: intense, bitter orange oil, extraordinarily complex with prevalent herbaceous and floral tones. A nice, light nose of orange blossom. The complexity of this bitters makes it the right choice for bolstering sweeter alcohols like rum, or maybe whisky or gin, or at least an equally complex and spicy vermouth or aperitif like Bonal, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, or even Oregon’s own Imbue. Anything else might be easily overpowered by Angostura Orange.

Bittercube Orange – Not a very bitter bitters, this one tastes of candied orange peel with hints of mint, or maybe even vanilla and chamomile (though the bottle says cardamom and coriander). The first thing to hit the nose is astringent alcohol but it’s quickly followed by orange zest. Its sweetness is perfectly balanced out by its bitterness, making this a fantastically versatile bitters, especially for crafted, viscous cocktails.

Continue Reading »

markbitterman :: Sep.16.2011 :: Drink :: No Comments »

Your father will be so happy.

Don’t forget: Father’s Day is coming up on Sunday, June 19th. Orders before noon PST today (3pm EST) are guaranteed to arrive in time for Father’s Day! We’ve got a few ideas for ways that you can show Dad who’s number one without resorting to the emblazoned coffee mug.

EAT

Cook & Serve Himalayan Salt Block Set – Whether for a beginner or a seasoned veteran, this set of two salt blocks will do the job. Includes one tableware block for serving up a platter of sweet summer fruits or sea-fresh sashi, and one cookware block for grilling up the best scallops or flank steak you’ve ever had. Or put them both together and cure a filet of salmon! Let your dad’s imagination run wild.

BBQ Salt Set - For the grilling king. This set provides him with six superb salts to finish, rub, or encrust at the BBQ all summer long. Available in 1.2 oz and 2 oz jars, this set is going to make your father’s barbecues the big hit of the summer.

DRINK

Home Bar Set – This set comes with three salts, two bitters, and a jar of cherries; the foundation for your father’s home bar. He’ll be able to bring color and flavor to the rim of a stiff, chilled drink with these salts, including one smoked and one lemon-infused. The classic duo of old-fashioned and orange bitters along with dark cherries in a spiced Merlot syrup will give him what he needs to create delicious cocktails, both classic and contemporary.

Bitters, Old Men – An artisan line of bitters from the home of the Manhattan, these bottled tinctures come in intriguing flavors like roasted macadamia, smoke, and bacon. A cheeky gift for your favorite bitter old man.

LEARN

Chilling & Grilling with Himalayan Salt Blocks – Portland Location

Join us for an evening class on preparing food on 600 million year old salt blocks from Pakistan. This event includes snacks, wine and an in-depth discussion of everything you ever wanted to know (and everything you never knew you always wanted to know), about cooking with plates and blocks and bricks and rocks of Himalayan Pink salt.

Thursday, June 16th, 2011, 6:30pm to 8:00pm – $30 per person

CELEBRATE!

Today, June 14th marks the Fifth Anniversary of our shop in Portland! At a loss for words. So come celebrate with us in Portland as we toast to five wonderful years in the City of Roses. Drinks, snacks, and good company in abundance–so stop by and let us thank you personally for your many years of custom and friendship. We’re looking forward to seeing you all there!

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011, 5:00pm to 8:00pm
Hey all you New Yorkers, we look forward to seeing you for our One Year Anniversary in October!

Happy Father’s Day from Jennifer, Mark, and the staff at The Meadow

markbitterman :: Jun.14.2011 :: Drink, Eat, Newsletter Archive :: No Comments »

The limited edition Spanish Bitters is the latest creation from the inventive mind of “Doctor” Adam Elmegirab. Here’s a little background on the newest bottled beauty from Adam, a bar consultant and historical mixologist based in Aberdeen, Scotland:

“The recipe I use is based on a number of receipts I dug out of bar guides and medicinal journals from various points of the 1800s and early 1900s.  Based predominantly on citrus and chamomile, the final product is like no other bitters I’ve tried, boasting a great deal of depth and versatility.”

What Goes into Spanish Bitters… and What Comes Out

“I initially made a small-batch of these for a Licor 43 drinks competition that I entered in the summer of 2010. They received such a great response on that day and from the few bartenders who were lucky enough to get their hands on a sample that it made sense to make a Limited Edition batch. The demand since then has been staggering and people are already asking if I’ll make another batch in the future.”

Adam describes his new bitters as being composed of “layers of complex flavor including coriander, violet, raspberry, honey, citrus, pomegranate, toasted orange and predominant chamomile, all leading to a long bittersweet finish.”  The sum of the flavors is very reminiscent of rum, which I suspect might be the base alcohol for this bitters.

The Spanish Bitters is a labor of love for Adam, who performs every step of the process himself:

“I have selected eight dried and fresh botanicals which are steeped in overproof spirit for no less than two weeks. They are then filtered, diluted to bottling strength with Scottish water, and colored with a hint of caramel. My bottlings are truly hand-crafted, with every stage of the production, bottling, and labeling process being taken care of by my own two hands.” I’d love to see what an insect version of Adam could make with a few more appendages at his disposal.

Spanish Bitters in Your Cocktail

Adam says his research for creating his Spanish Bitters has led to something novel in the world of bitters.

“I’ve not come across anything like them to be honest. The really interesting thing for me is the fact that these are essentially classic bitters, but they also have a very modern feel. As with any quality bitters they should have multiple uses so, although the dominant flavor is chamomile, the support flavorings of citrus, coriander, honey, soft spice, and violet give them great versatility in drinks calling for citrus, floral, spiced, earthy, fruity, and bitter notes.”

Adam is bringing openness into what is traditionally the hyper-secretive craft of bitters making.  On his blog he offers up information on recommended drinks and breaks his mixtures down into ingredients with notes on their flavors and medicinal uses. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a bitters maker who is as open with his industry secrets as this guy.
I find that the Spanish Bitters tends toward the sweeter side, so I agree with Adam that it pairs nicely with rum and other dark spirits, though its more floral notes suggest that it’d do just as well with gin drinks. Adam provided me with a drink recipe that he created just for this bitters:

The Union Flip

1 barspoon Caraway Seeds
4 crunches black peppercorn
1 whole egg
1 ounce Appleton 8 Year Old rum
1 ounce Licor 43
4 dashes Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Spanish Bitters
1 teaspoon simple syrup

Muddle caraway seeds in base of mixing glass, add remaining ingredients, and dry shake for five seconds. Fill with cubed ice and shake hard for a further ten seconds. Fine strain into a small frozen wine glass and garnish with grated nutmeg.

I’d recommend trying the Spanish Bitters in some familiar cocktails as well. A sidecar, for instance, could go right off the deep end with the added sweet and spicy rumminess, while a margarita would gain a little more tropical flare.

Too early in the day for a cocktail? Adam says to put a dash or two of Spanish Bitters in a nice citrus tea or warm apple cider! And don’t be afraid to experiment with some dressings and sauces, either.

To read some more about Adam’s forays into historical mixology, see his blog where he recreates drinks from the very first cocktail book published in the United States and reports on news in the cocktail world.

You can buy several of Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s bitters from The Meadow, retail and wholesale, as well as a plethora of other lines of bitters.

markbitterman :: Apr.26.2011 :: Drink, Recipes :: No Comments »

Avery and Janet Glasser, prodigal makers of Bittermens Bitters, have relocated their facilities to the ever-more boozy borough of Brooklyn—or re-relocated, as Bittermens started out in Brooklyn before spending a few years transplanted in Boston. Burlesque Bitters is the first new concoction since the Glassers’ return to the fold.

Goings on about the Bitters

The new concoction was released just ahead of Valentine’s Day with what I take to be an appeal to blushing lovers to undertake mixological experiments on one another. Avery says the “burlesque” preceded the bitters:

“This is one of those flavors that just came about based on a friend mentioning the word burlesque during our first big bottling session after we restarted Bittermens. As soon as we started talking about Burlesque, it evoked a color and texture—red velvet, like a curtain at a stage show. Once the color and texture were decided upon, we started thinking about flavors that would evoke that feeling, and eventually developed this formula.”

Avery describes the flavor as floral and tart, though to me there’s a bit more to it than that. The bitter element is very strong, with a long, pitchy-peppery flavor that comes through clearly in the aroma, and more subtly in the taste.

The simplicity of the production process belies the complexity of the product: “steep herbs, roots, peels and spices in high proof neutral grain spirits, filter and dilute.” Hibiscus flowers and açaí berries comprise the main ingredients of these bitters, though they are bolstered by over a dozen other flavor components. The Burlesque Bitters are a unique concoction and a new endeavor for Bittermens:

“This is the first time where we attempted to play with bitter and tart flavors together, so coming up with a working balance that made tart a supporting flavor, not the dominant component, was necessary. However, once we figured out how to layer the flavors, it was just a matter of tweaking some of the components.”

Cocktail Recipe with Burlesque Bitters

But what to do with this tarty new addition to the cocktail world? The Glassers recommend gin, genever, rum, vermouth, and Italian amaros.

But Lord God above, putting bitters in amaro evokes for me some turducken-like contraption made by stuffing dynamite into a firecracker. Avery insists “these all play extremely well with these bitters. Certain scotches and tequilas also work extremely well.” Tequila has not worked out so well for us, with several attempts at cocktails coming off discordant and odd. Avery insists that he finds that the smokier mescals or richer reposados make for a good tryst with the Burlesque. I’ll grant that Burlesqued tequila evokes a border town saloon with high-kicking ruffles and smoke and player pianos—and that conjures a thirst.

Generally speaking, Bittermens Burlesque Bitters is a distinctive–or maybe seductively weird is the word–and absolutely necessary addition to the bitters world; elements of razzle-dazzle ricocheting off a sophisticated reserve… what I might venture to call the hallmark of the Glassers’ expertly crafted products.

Thomas Waugh of Death + Company in New York offers this recipe inspired by Bittermens Burlesque Bitters:

The Gold Baron

1½ oz bourbon (Eagle Rare 10)
½ oz Laird’s 100 Proof Applejack
½ tsp grenadine
½ tsp sugar cane syrup
1 barspoon* Burlesque Bitters

Stir and serve on the rocks (or on one large rock if possible) without any garnish.

These bitters would also be an excellent complement for a Negroni, for those of us with more modest home bars. Equal parts gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari topped off with a dash or two of Burlesque Bitters and garnished with a slice of orange – voilà!

You can buy the entire line of Bittermens bitters from The Meadow, retail and wholesale.

*A barspoon is a long handled spoon designed to reach the bottom of a tall glass. The measurement is equivalent to a teaspoon.

markbitterman :: Mar.02.2011 :: Drink, Recipes :: No Comments »